This past weekend marked the first time that our
group of three has really left the safety (and as I learned the prosperity) of
the capital Dushanbe for the countryside. And I have to say that, in more than
one way, it was certainly an eye-opener. Our group was destined for Varzob, a
district neighboring Dushanbe that, among other things, is known for its scenic
vistas, and generally a place for resident Tajiks to go and relax.
Under
the guide (and marvelous driving skills) of our resident Tajik professor
Faridun, we reached our destination, a Tajik version of a picnic ground,
complete with service providing chai, melon, and food to anyone who happened to
stop-by. Our group settled in for a lovely lunch of shurbo (also known as shurpo,
a hearty lamb soup) and kofta kebab. After sitting around eating, drinking, and
napping, we finally decided to try our luck at traversing the hills surrounding
the picnic spot.
Now for this next
section, I was tempted to title it “Varzob: Or How I Was Too Busy Trying Not to
Step in Cow Shit to Take Lots of Pictures.” But that just seems a bit crass. In
any case, due to the fact that farmers (maybe?) from up the hill have cows
which need to graze, the path up the hill is heavily traversed (and thus shat
upon) by cows, of which we saw about half a dozen lazing about in the noonday
sun. And this is where a lot of the more beautiful pictures from Tajikistan
have come from thus far. While these were mere hills compared to the Fanns to
the north, or the mighty Pamirs to the east, the scenery was simply
breathtaking. It also helped that we found a small waterfall with water both
cold enough to relieve the heat, and clean enough to quench our thirst, a good
distance up.
Unfortunately, even
Varzob had a dark side. In my earlier post, I’d stated that calling this place
a “cold Africa” was an apt analogy. However, as I’d learned, the level of sheer
“I don’t know who the hell planned this” once we left the capital was
astonishing. Entire blocs of what used to be houses in complete disarray.
Houses left unfinished. Random mansions that were both beautiful, yet
disturbing next to the lean-tos and shanties along the side of the road. It
helped to put things into perspective as to where exactly I am, and what
exactly is (or isn’t) going on in this country.
+++
The
following day was “Ruz-e Isteqlal”, or Tajikistan’s Independence Day. And
compared to the average Fourth of July, even in the capital it was a rather
subdued affair. While my program mates and I searched for a seemingly
non-existent concert that we’d been told of, we ended up enjoying some cold
beers and some shashlik (kebab) at a café in front of the Dushanbe Opera House.
After a lovely afternoon chatting up some Iranian expats and some friendly
Tajiks, we decided to get some local sweets (pistachios from Iran and
Russian-style ice cream) and went to Rudaki Park to enjoy the marvelous
weather, and of course to see the largest flag in the world. Finally, I was
able to enjoy a lovely fireworks display, framed over the statue of Rudaki and
the Presidential Palace on Ismail Somoni.
Actually
touring Dushanbe on foot gave me a chance to realize that, despite the obvious
differences in development and infrastructure, Dushanbe is very reminiscent of
another city I’ve lived in for the past two years: Washington DC. It’s not that
surprising a comparison. Both cities have very little history before their
founding, and have had to adapt a previous history of culture to suit their
existence (medieval Persian in Dushanbe’s case, and the Western tradition
stretching back to Greece and Rome for DC). In order to justify their existence
in this way, they’ve both built massive, showy monuments to show how they are
truly the successors to these histories. And, as a result of these policies of
glorifying some “historical continuance”, both cities have sections of great
wealth and opulence, and sections of true poverty.
+++
Lastly,
this has been the end of my first three-day weekend in Tajikistan, and I’ve got
no ideas for what to write about next. Since apparently people read this thing,
if of you have anything you want to know about Tajikistan, suggestions would be
greatly appreciated, and until next time: Tashakkur and khudo hafez.
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